wardrobe essentials 2017 - Rivage raglan top

As it was getting chillier by the day, I looked through my wardrobe  and realised that I didn't own a single long sleeved t-shirt. T-shirts is all I wear really (well, I do also wear trousers, underwear and socks) and I set out to remedy the dire situation.

I have two t-shirt patterns that I use regularly, the Cashmerette Concord -t-shirt and the Fancy Tiger Sailor top. Both are versatile patterns. The Concord tee is fitted with three different necklines and three different sleeve lengths to choose from. The Sailor top is drapey and works well with woven and knit fabric. With these two patterns, I created a good range of summer tops.

Back in October, I made two long sleeved velvet Concord t-shirts. I didn't take long, it was essential cut and sew as all pattern changes necessary were already in place. My midnight blue velvet Concord is a bit low cut for winter due to a mishap during the construction, which resulted in me having to cut the neckband off and making a new one. I think I made it a little too short as there is some bunching. Not perfect but ok. The black velvet top I made is near perfect though and I really like to wear it, it feels soft on the inside and - depending on the stroke direction - also on the outside. It looks almost too glamorous for a weekday t-shirt actually.

There is only so many types of basic t-shirt pattern one needs but I really missed having a pattern for a plain raglan tee. I love a good old raglan tee, I always feel ten years younger when I am wearing one. Much cheaper than fancy creams, too!

Being really overweight, finding patterns that fit without having to completely redraw them is not trivial but it is getting easier. Trust me, the photos I post are dishonest, I choose the camera angle wisely and tend to focus on the parts of my body that are average, with a bit of goodwill on behalf of the beholder. In reality, I have a big soft tummy and my hips are of epic proportions. Anyway, I discovered Blank Slate patterns earlier this year, all the patterns I looked encompass my hip measurements, which is truly a blessing as I can just grade between sizes to accommodate the more standard sized upper half of me and the epic hips.

I chose the Rivage Raglan. This can be made with three sleeve lengths and also includes a tunic version with pockets. I have some gorgeous terry fabric that I want to make into a slouchy long sleeved top but I didn't want to use it for a first use of the pattern. After a bit of rummaging through my knit fabric box I found purple and orange remnants, neither big enough for a t-shirt but both big enough for either body or sleeves. I always loved the combination of purple and orange, it is pure happy. I cut the sleeves from the orange knit and the body from the purple knit. The neckband had to be orange.

The pattern instructions are detailed enough for a beginner. The instructions are particularly good if you need to adapt it to suit your body. Sizing is based in the first instance on the high bust, then the full bust. Bust and shoulder adjustments are explained with sketches if your body measurements are different from those in the chart. I was lucky enough to have the exact high and full bust measurements for one size but had to grade up two for the hips. I had to drastically shorten the sleeves. The fit model for Blank Slate patterns must have Orang Utan arms. I shortened the sleeves by  7 cm.  The sewing was quick, I chose purple thread and all seams were done with the overlocker.

The fit is ok for a first attempt. I could maybe shave off a centimetre or two in the shoulder region and I'll definitely make the sleeves more fitted and shorter still. I don't think I make changes to the pattern in the shoulder area, just increase the seam allowance by a fraction all around. The sleeves I need to change on paper.

I pressed the seams for the photo and melted the thread... I think it will last though, it seems to be fused to the fabric and not the iron. I also notice that I need to get more sleep, I look way more tired than I feel....  Lastly, did you see my experimental hair cut? It is looking the same as usual until you look closer... I have a really serious undercut and essentially my hair is super short under the curly mess that you can see. I am a secret rebel.

Have a lovely day! xx